I traveled to Alaska to spend time around coastal brown bears in Katmai and Lake Clark. I camped across different areas for a week, moving between river systems, beaches, and open tundra where bears feed and travel. The goal was simple: photograph bears in their natural environment and get a better understanding of how they behave when people are not crowding them or pushing for views.

Katmai was the first stop. The bears there move between fishing spots with a level of confidence that comes from long exposure to both salmon runs and people. Watching them walk through the rivers or stand in fast-moving water gives you a clear sense of how strong and efficient they are. They are focused but not rushed, and it is easy to see why this area is known for close bear encounters.
Lake Clark felt different. It is quieter and has more space to observe without feeling like you are part of a crowd. This is also where I met a guide who quickly became the most memorable part of the trip. He was ex military and had transitioned into flying bush planes and guiding in Alaska. He knew the terrain well and spoke plainly about weather patterns, bear routes, and how to stay aware in environments that change quickly. He was the type of person Alaska suited naturally.

We spent time watching bears dig for clams, feed in sedge meadows, and walk tidal flats during low tide. He pointed out behavioral cues that I would not have noticed on my own, such as how bears adjust their posture when they detect something out of sight or how they prefer certain travel routes depending on the tide. These are the kinds of details you learn only after years of working in the field.
He passed away last year. Hearing that was difficult, because he had seemed so connected to Alaska that it was hard to imagine him anywhere else or doing anything else. It made me realize that the version of the trip I experienced is tied to that specific time and person. The place will always be there, but the experience is not something that can happen in the same way again.
When I look back on that week, what stands out is a combination of the wildlife, the long days outside, and the practical advice he shared. It was a straightforward trip with simple routines. Wake up, pack up camp, travel to the next location, observe bears for most of the day, and repeat. Nothing about it was complicated, but it was the kind of week that stays with you because of the people you meet and the access you get to a landscape that is far from ordinary.
I went for the bears, and that part of the trip was everything I expected. The rest, especially the time spent with a guide who knew the area as well as anyone could, was what made the trip something I still think about.
Wildlife Expedition – July 2024

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